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"Fitting Bras For Happy Boobs"

How to Find the Perfect Bra

80% of women wear the wrong bra size. Are you looking for the real fit? Here is how to determine your correct size.

Since the bra was invented a hundred years ago, materials have changed. Nowadays they are much more flexible than they used to be. However, the garment industry keeps holding onto the old, stiff sizes and does business as usual, offering bandwidths starting from 32 inches with cup sizes ranging from A to D. Sometimes you can even get an E…if you fancy skin-colored bras that is.

This is why especially slim women who are blessed in the chest usually wear underbust bands that are too wide and cups that are too small. When the underband is riding up your back, it is too wide and will not give your bust enough support. All of the weight will be hanging on the straps that painfully cut into your flesh. This leads to a bad posture and can result in chronic back pain.

It should be the other way around: The underbust band should be fairly tight, carrying most of the weight. Bigger cups will hold the volume and prevent the tissue from spilling out. For a big bust it is also recommended to wear broader straps. This way they won’t slip out of place and the straps won’t dig into your shoulders.

Now let’s find out what your real size is.

First, put on your best fitting bra and take your underbust measures. It is important that the measuring tape is horizontal. Then subtract two inches or five cm. This is the figure of your underband; the band will be widened by wearing and washing your bra regularly (that’s why you subtract the two inches). Now measure your bust size across the strongest part of your breasts, horizontally across the nippels.

When you’ve measured both sizes, subtract the underbust girth from your bust girth. The difference corresponds to your cup size, which you can easily figure out with this chart.

International Cup Size Conversion Chart

Congratulations, you now know your correct size! Don’t be scared if the result is not within the usual ABC-range. It’s not your body that has changed, it’s only that now you know the size you should really be wearing. Once you’ve worn a well-fitting bra for the first time, you won’t ever settle for less anymore.

Bra-Procurement

So you think that now that you know your size, you can go crazy shopping and every bra will be a fit. Unfortunately, it is a wee bit more complicated than this, because not every brand is true to size. Unless you’re lucky enough to have a well-sorted boutique nearby where you can try on the different brands, you might want to order your bras online. You should order several adjoining sizes until you find the right fit. This is where cross sizing play a role. Cross sizes will hold the same volume.

Here’s an example: Let’s say you’ve tried on a 30F, but the band is too tight, then you should try on a 32E. If to the contrary the band is too wide and your underband is riding up your back, you need to go down a back size and move up one cup size – a 28FF should be good for you. Panache Tango Balconette, Freya Pollyanna and Rosa Faia Twin by Anita are considered to be true to size, thus recommended models for beginners.

Cross Sizing

In order to find a well-fitting bra you should also take into account the consistency and form of your breasts. Is the tissue soft or firm, the volume in the lower or upper part? How wide is the cleavage? For breast with a narrow cleavage the separator shouldn’t be too high. For breast with a wide cleavage a high separator is recommended, otherwise you breast may easily fall out of the bra, especially when you have a soft bosom. You should then refrain from wearing plunge bras. Go for a balconette bra or full cups instead. If you have small, firm and wide breasts, you should go for half cups with wide wires instead.

Once you’ve put on your bra, lean over and let the breasts fall into your cups. Then stroke the tissue from the sides into the cups, so that they will hold the entire breast. When the underband is horizontal, offering the right support, the cup is well-filled, nothing spills out at the sides or on top, the separator lies tight on your sternal and the straps don’t slip, then – yay! – you have have found a fitting bra.